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The Year Abroad
As third year approaches, a Modern Languages student stands at the precipice of one of the most important decisions of their academic career: where to go on their year abroad. There is so much to consider, so much to prepare. The temptation to not stray too far from home often triumphs; I spent my year abroad in Spain. However, post-university, I endeavoured to explore a little further, spending almost a year living in Uruguay. While these experiences held unique value for me at different stages of my life, I hope to encourage aspiring year-abroad students to consider opting for Uruguay – a charming path that lies off the beaten track.
About Uruguay
Uruguay is one of the smallest countries in South America and is home to approximately 3.4 million residents. The vast majority of the population is concentrated in the capital city, Montevideo. Other residents are dotted across various seaside towns and villages in el campo (the countryside). To provide a brief historical background, Uruguay was colonised by both the Portuguese and the Spanish across the 17th-19th centuries, which led to the decimation of most of the country’s indigenous population. Uruguay became fully independent in 1828 and later underwent a period of oppressive military dictatorship from 1973-85. Since then, the country has increasingly been considered as one of the most robustly democratic, economically affluent and socially stable countries in Latin America. Uruguay legalised gay marriage in 2013 and the current government, the centre-left-wing party Frente Amplio, was elected in November 2024. Surveys also show that indigenous communities, including the Charrúa people, are resurfacing.
The Language
In comparison to a more tourist-heavy city like Barcelona, where it is difficult to resist the temptation to resort to using English, Uruguay facilitates more complete immersion in Spanish. Furthermore, while it can initially be challenging to adjust to both the accent – the ‘y’ and the ‘ll’ are pronounced as ‘sh’ – and the slang – the bus is a bondi rather than an autobús and a strawberry is a frutilla rather than a fresa, for example – it is a welcome opportunity to expand your knowledge of the language beyond the European Spanish that is taught at school and university.
The Food and Drink
In Uruguay, the number of cows per capita is a staggering 3.8. By contrast, the number in the UK is just 0.14. It is hardly surprising, therefore, that the country is famed for its meat (and its leather clothing). Multiple times per week, families and friends will gather around la parilla (the grill) and host an asado, grilling meat and provolone cheese that is then passed around the group and eaten. It marks not only a mealtime but a social experience, and it is fundamental to Uruguayan culture.
Other popular savoury Uruguayan food includes chivito (an exquisitely stacked meat and vegetable sandwich), panchito (a frankfurter hot dog), tostado de jamón y queso (a mouth-wateringly good ham and cheese toastie), and milanesa (thinly sliced breaded chicken or veal, akin to a schnitzel). Famous sweet options include dulce de leche (a sweet, caramel-like spread), alfajores (a crumbly biscuit sandwich, often filled with dulce de leche) and bizcochos (a mix between pastry and bread, available both sweet and salty).
Uruguayans, like Argentineans, are maté-obsessed. Maté is a bitter drink, made by adding boiling water to yerba (herbs) in a maté cup, and consumed through a bombilla (a metal straw). Like the asado, the consumption of maté is embedded in a culture of sharing, often being passed around between friends and family. Finally, another popular drink that is vital for any visiting student to know is fernet. Fernet is a liqueur with a uniquely minty flavour, and it tends to be served in a mixed drink with coca-cola and ice. Skip the rum and coke or the gin and tonic; in a Uruguayan club, what you want is a fernet con coca.
What To Do
There are an abundance of activities to do in Montevideo. If you have seen Netflix’s ‘La sociedad de la nieve’ (2023), based on the true story of the plane that crashed into the Andes carrying Uruguay’s rugby team, perhaps it would be of particular interest to take a trip to El Museo Andes 1972 to browse the stories and belongings of victims and survivors. To enrich your knowledge of Uruguay’s cultural and artistic heritage, visit El Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales, Teatro Solís and Palacio Salvo. If you are a sunset lover, perch upon the longest Rambla in Latin America and watch as the skyline grows saturated with oranges and pinks. If you enjoy the bustling hubbub of a lively city, take a trip to La Feria de Tristan Narvaja on Sunday, catch a Carnaval show between January and March, or join the 8 de marzo women’s march and the September Pride parade. If you prefer to kick back with a book and a coffee, take advantage of Uruguay’s budding café culture at República rotisería, Estudio café, Culto café or La bicicleta café.
Choosing a Neighbourhood
One of the simultaneously tedious and thrilling practicalities of the year abroad is deciding where to live. The city of Montevideo encompasses a variety of different barrios (neighbourhoods), each of which has both advantages and disadvantages. Neighbourhoods like Carrasco and Punta Carretas, although appealing, certainly lie on the pricier side. Or there is Ciudad Vieja which, despite being home to many of the popular historical attractions, is considered to be quite unsafe at night. I personally spent some months living in Prado which, containing the Botanical Gardens, is a tranquil neighbourhood; however, it is largely residential and therefore relatively removed from student life. I subsequently moved to Parque rodó which, in my experience, was the perfect middle ground. As well as being adjacent to the beach, ample green space and the hubbub of the centre, it was affordable. However, you need not necessarily follow my Parque rodó bias – you might want to also consider Pocitos or Buceos, both of which are central and beachside, amongst other areas.
Outside of Montevideo
Whilst I recommend living in Montevideo, Uruguay has so much more to offer. The coastline is home to an array of seaside towns and sweeping beaches, including the increasingly popular tourist destination Punta del Este, as well as La Rocha, José Ignacio and Cabo Polonio. The latter option is a particularly unique experience; in order to protect the expansive stretch of surrounding sand dunes, normal cars and buses are not allowed into the village, and visitors must instead squeeze into a designated truck. Furthermore, electricity and lights are scarce, and the nighttime sandy paths are lined solely by lanterns. As well as this, the UNESCO World Heritage site Colonia, with its cobblestone streets, vibrantly flowering trees and host of historical landmarks, is a must-visit.
Conclusion
Not only did my language skills improve more drastically during my time in Uruguay than across the entirety of my four-year degree (I even learnt how to roll my r’s, which has been a life-long challenge for me!) but Uruguay became a place that will always hold a piece of my heart. I hope it can hold a piece of yours too!
